Incredible India

“Hi Kat! Welcome back! Did you enjoy India?!”

I hesitate for a split-second, and their facial expression changes in one of two ways – for those who have been to India before, a subtle smile of understanding; for those who have not but have been following my barrage of Instagram stories over the past weeks, a furrow of confusion.

The short answer is, yes, I did enjoy India. A lot. But …

I first started dreaming of visiting India as a young teen flipping through the pages of a book my father bought me on architecture across the world, when I came across a magnificent monument with milky white marble, stunning stone motifs and mesmerizing symmetry, with an even better story. What attention the Taj Mahal first drew, the later discovery of Indian cuisine solidified.

India was, in fact, the first place I promised I would go to on my first adventures beyond Europe, and it was only with discouragement from a number of people that it got pushed a few years back, as I eased into travel to less-controversial strange lands. As I stood, teary-eyed, in front of the monumental façade of the Treasury in Petra, Jordan, however, a dormant dream resurfaced. Taj was calling for me.

For a travel-control-freak like me, it is only natural that I went to India well-read and well-informed on what I could expect to see. This was a point of much discussion between me and my travel companions in the days leading up to our trip. We were preparing ourselves for discomfort. Perhaps that is the reason why we seemed to suffer so little of the culture shock which many of the people I spoke to experienced. Perhaps we’re just made of tougher stuff (at least our digestive systems seem to be as we’re just about the only people I spoke to who did not get a dose of Delhi belly, and that’s even after eating all the street food in sight). That is not to say that any amount of reading or pictures can completely prepare you for the first-hand experience. The hardest aspect of India, for me, was the overwhelming helplessness that comes from witnessing so much poverty; but there is so much to be said about that I won’t try just here and now.

So how to accurately describe such a place?

I remember reading that India is an assault on your senses. That is the most accurate description I have come across. That is what you feel as you come off the plane into New Delhi airport, find a taxi, drive (if you can call that driving) to your hotel, and step out into the city.

People, animals and electricity wires as far as the eyes can see; animal waste and rubbish on every corner and everywhere in between; cars and tuktuks rushing past; shouts and honks galore – that is what the capital (like a lot of the more popular spots in the country) is like.

Loud, dirty, crowded. Chaotic.

And once you embrace all that; very, very interesting.

From extravagant palaces and forts, to the rich culture and history, to the colourful celebrations and flavourful food, India is an experience like no other. It really is incredible to witness.

I guess New Delhi is the best and worst place to start. The worst, because it has plenty of shock factor; the best, because things become somewhat easier afterwards. The rural areas, especially, were a welcome change of pace, and the different cities of Rajasthan had some lovely sectors.

We spent two weeks travelling through Rajasthan, the Land of Kings, the northern Indian state which is most popular with outsiders as India in its most exotic form. The country is huge, and unless you have many weeks to spend there, focusing on one region is a good idea, and Rajasthan is usually considered the place to start. A friend of mine who also visited the south of India a few weeks after me commented on how different the south was to the north, and how beautiful.

We joined Intrepid’s Classic Rajasthan small-group tour, where you trade complete freedom for the ability to travel to remote rural locations, a local guide with all the knowledge of India and its history you could possibly absorb, meeting like-minded travelers from across the world, and some increased peace of mind. A good alternative is to book a driver to get you from place to place. I’m someone who enjoyed every second of planning and booking a thousand and one transport connections in Japan, and I admit I find India daunting to navigate entirely on your own.

With India’s renowned rape rates, we had some worries about safety before we went, and although we received a lot of unwelcome attention, I can’t say that we ever felt particularly unsafe, even when walking at night, although we were a group of three (including one male). I would not feel comfortable as a solo female traveler there, although kudos to those who do!

So, to conclude, the answer is … yes, I did enjoy India. A lot. But not in the way that I enjoyed Japan – India’s stark opposite – with its spotless roads, ultra-modern or perfectly preserved buildings, and quasi-regimental order, slowly strolling the streets with a sense of calm and comfort. It was a back to basics, at parts uncomfortable, somewhat exhausting enjoyment, by the end of which I was quite happy to leave and never walk over a piece of cow dung in the road again. But what a unique experience for the European traveler! India allowed me to see and learn more; to push myself out of my comfort zone. As a visitor, there is a palpable sense of freedom which you feel in a place like that which I have not experienced elsewhere. As I write this, sitting quietly at home during a pandemic, for the first time after an entire year since visiting, I almost miss it.

So my advice is, put India on your travel list, but only once you know what you’re getting in for and being prepared to face it.

If you’re after a relaxing and luxurious experience, or if lack of proper hygiene will drive you absolutely mad, this is not the place for you. Of course, there are some gorgeous upscale resorts for you to stay at, but all that fades away once you step out the front door; and if you’re only staying inside, why visit to begin with?

If you’re after an interesting experience which you will not forget, then pack your bags, swallow your probiotics, put on a brave and confident face (or hide your apprehension under a pollution mask), and get outside of your comfort zone to discover a land, culture and people different to what you’re used to seeing on your doorstep. As for me, that privilege is what travel is all about.

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If you got this far and read all that, I salute you. If you really want to see what I mean in context, keep scrolling!

India Travel Tips:

Buy a sim card when you arrive. 3G will cost you next to nothing, and it will come in useful in finding your way around and ordering Ubers.
Take a pollution mask – the level of air pollution will vary depending on the weather; we had a particularly ugly bout in New Delhi.
Be up to date with your vaccinations and start a course of probiotics before you arrive (and take them throughout your trip), and stock up on your Immodium, Dioralytes, a good mosquito spray and the such.
You might wish to take some packaged snacks (like protein bars) to munch on when you’re on the go and not up for an Indian snack for breakfast.
Unfortunately, leave your reusable water bottle at home. Tap water is a big no no in India. Buy only sealed filtered water for drinking and even to wash your teeth.

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New Delhi

Most people will fly into India via New Delhi, the country’s manic capital. Home to over 30 million people, there is much to see in Delhi, although we limited our stay to two days, mostly exploring Old Delhi, and I’m not sure we would have been too eager for more.

While there, check out the Jama Masijd, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which is Delhi’s oldest mosque and India’s largest, with its courtyard having a capacity of more than 25,000 people. Famed Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan built the mosque between 1650 and 1656, with more than 5000 workers working on its three great gates and high minarets constructed of red sandstone and white marble.

A good way to get a tasting of Indian cuisine is to try Delhi’s street food and other casual specialized eateries, unless that scares you. I’ve done all the research so you don’t have to. I am happy to report that we had no digestive issues with any of the below, but I wash my hands of any effect on yours 🙂

Check out the below photos from our walks around Delhi, mainly between eateries and mostly in the Chandi Chowk area, and my recommended food stops.

Grab some dahi balla and aloo tikka from Natraj Dahi Bhalle Wala, probably two of the most flavourful dishes we had in India.

Try some paratha from Paranthe Wali Gali; lots of flavours for you to choose from as you pack into this compact, popular eatery.

Sample some jalebi from Old Famous Jalebi Wala; too sweet for my liking, but a popular fried Indian snack.

Enjoy some kulfi from Kuremal Mohanial Kulfiwale; delicious versions of India’s traditional ice cream (resembling frozen yoghurt).

You can try some spicy samosas, kachori and gulab jamuns from Shri Bankey Bihari Samose Wale.

Finally, get you some momos from Brown Sugar; the only modern establishment on this list serving the delicious Indian dumplings and other snacks.

A must-visit in Delhi is Humanyun’s Tomb (and the surrounding garden complex), commissioned by the second Mughal Emperor’s first wife and chief consort, Empress Bega Begum, in 1570, as a mausoleum for her husband. It was the first garden-tomb in India and the first structure to use red sandstone at such a scale. The tomb was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993.

Another lovely experience was visiting Sheeshganj Gurudwara, the peaceful Sikh temple in the middle of bustling Chandi Chowk. There we got to learn about Sikhism and lend a hand in the communal kitchen that welcomes all.

For an upscale, yet traditional dinner celebrating your adventures to come in India, treat yourself to Bukhara, often described as the best Indian restaurant in the world, attracting heads of state and celebrities from all over the world. Book in advance and don’t be late or you will miss your slot.

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Agra

206 kilometres south of Delhi, Agra sits on the banks of the Yamuna River, the fourth most populous city in the state of Uttar Pradesh. Probably my favourite day in India, and with good reason.

First stop was the Red Fort, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the main residence of the emperors of the Mughal Dynasty until 1638, when the capital was shifted from Agra to Delhi. The walled city, built in magnificent red sandstone, is northwest of its sister monument, the Taj Mahal, which you can spot from its terraces and rooms where the Taj Mahal commissioner, Emperor Shah Jahan, was imprisoned by his son in the last years of his life. Going around with a guide allows you to appreciate the historical significance, and learn a number of architectural tricks, of the fort.

With only a few minutes to grab a lunch and a McDonald’s right next to our hotel, we were admittedly tempted to check out what Indian options they offered. This has now pretty much become a pastime on our travels. With Rajasthan being a mainly vegetarian state, the Veg Maharaja Mac was on offer and it was probably the best McDonald’s meal I’ve had to date.

And then came the moment I’d been waiting for since I was 13. It’s a moment of wonder when you step through the complex gates and look upon the Taj Mahal across the stretch of the tree-lined pond leading up to the monument.

Built out of stunning white marble, the Taj gleamed against a perfect blue sky – a moment of immense luck amidst days where fog and smog made the Taj invisible from a few metres away. One of the New 7 Wonders of the World, the mausoleum was commissioned in 1632 by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan to house the tomb of his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, and is regarded as the greatest monument to love and one of the best examples of Mughal architecture.

Sadly, Jahan’s rumoured plans for a twin mausoleum in black marble on the opposite side of the Yamuna River to house his remains never came to pass. Instead, he spent his last years as a prisoner, gazing at the Taj Mahal from his rooms in Agra Fort.

We enjoyed a simple, satisfying dinner on the terraces of the Maya Hotel & Restaurant; a good option for well-priced thalis, round platters used to serve a variety of food for a well-rounded Indian meal.

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Bassi, Madhogarh

Next up, we ventured into Rajasthan, starting with a stop in Bassi for a glimpse of rural India, a welcome treat as the madness of Delhi started to fade away further into the distance. We stayed in the heritage property of Fort Madhogarh, which has belonged to one of Rajasthan’s royal families for centuries. Although it is in need of considerable repair, it was exciting to live and sleep in a fort, if you can get past minimal luxury and a few geckos running across your walls, and manage to keep the hornets out. Our stay consisted of walking around Bassi village and interacting with the lovely locals, a truly enriching and humbling experience, and enjoying peaceful moments on the fort ramparts.

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Jaipur

Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan state, also known as the Pink City for its trademark building colour, is lush with gardens, courtyards and museums, with part of it still a royal residence.

On the outskirts is Amer Fort or Amber Palace, perched on a hill and overlooking Maota Lake, an expansive, opulent palace fortification set on 4 levels. One of the most-visited forts in India, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2013, with its architecture a noteworthy fusion of Rajput (Hindu) and Mughal (Islamic) styles. A guide allows you to appreciate the significance of the various structures.

For a cheap lunch option, try some Indian omelette and sandwiches from Sanjar Restaurant – Egg Dee, maybe followed by a helping of great tandoori paneer from Radhey Shyam Bhatia Paneer Wale and washed down with an excellent chai from Gulab Ji Chai Wale.

The most striking facade of Jaipur is undoubtedly the Hawa Mahal, also known as the Palace of the Winds, built in 1799 as an extension to the Royal City Palace from red and pink sandstone. It allowed the royal ladies who at the time strictly observed “pardah”, to be able to watch any processions and activities on the street without being seen by the public. Visit the Royal City Palace, a complex of courtyards, gardens and buildings, to learn more about the history of Jaipiur royalty.

Peacock Restaurant in Jaipur offered one of our favourite dinners in India, in a lovely rooftop setting with live music. From the spicy and cheesy lamb naan to excellent tandoori platters and great drinks, this is one spot you’ll definitely enjoy.

Nahargarh Fort, one of the largest forts in India and overlooking Jaipur from its position on the Aravalli mountains, is a place to visit to while away some time. However, the palace is mostly bare, and you’ll likely pay a pretty price to find a taxi back down due to lack of 3G connection there, so only visit if you’ve got time to kill.

For a magical experience in Jaipur, treat yourself to an afternoon tea at the stunning Rambagh Palace, a five-star heritage property originally built in 1835. If you afford it, a stay here would be magical, I’m sure. We enjoyed the Indian tea, although a traditional English one is also available. Live music and dancing usually follows in the evening.

You might come across one of India’s popular medieval stepwells, and make sure to snap a shot of Jal Mahal, a palace in the middle of the Man Sagar Lake. If you have time to while away, why not catch a Bollywood production at Raj Mandir Cinema, a popular symbol of Jaipur?

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Ranthambhore National Park

A special experience was a visit to Ranthambhore National Park, a vast wildlife reserve, a former royal hunting ground and home to tigers, leopards and marsh crocodile amongst a variety of other wildlife. Spotting a bengal tiger is the main prize of the safari tour, but with around 60 tigers in 1,334 km² area, this is not common. We were limitedly lucky – go ahead and play a game of spot the tiger below.

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Bundi

Bundi is a captivating town with a cheerful feel, a multitude of small temples and narrow lanes of Brahmin-blue houses.

The main landmark is the stunning 16th-century Bundi Palace with its famous murals and intricate mosaics. The palace has sadly fallen into disrepair due to lack of funding, a start contrast to the corner of lush green garden with its view of the town.

Spend your time in Bundi discovering its interesting roads, and make a stop at one or two of its step wells.

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Bijaipur

We also enjoyed a relaxing stay in the beautiful heritage property of Hotel Castle Bijaipur, where we stayed in the King’s suite, after exploring the simple village.

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Udaipur

Udaipur, known as the City of Lakes, is located in the southernmost part of Rajasthan, set around a series of artificial lakes, with its lavish royal residences and twisting alleys and bazaars.

Udaipur City Palace, rising above the banks of Lake Pichola, is one of India’s largest, built over a period of nearly 400 years by different rulers of the Mewar dynasty in a fusion of Rajasthani and Mughal architecture.

For a quick, simple lunch at the riverside, grab a sandwich and lassi at Jheel’s Ginger Coffee Bar & Bakery. You can never have too much chai, and Jimmy Restaurant offers a great cup at a ridiculously cheap price. What Sun & Moon Rooftop Restaurant lacks in great food it makes up for with its great view over the city, a good spot for a sunset or evening bite and/or drink, with some Western food options.

You can enjoy a boat ride on Lake Pichola to Jag Mandir palace, an island palace previously used as a royal summer resort, although there is little to see when you get there.

We treated ourselves to an afternoon and evening at Raas Devigarh, a 5-star heritage hotel and resort, housed in the 18th-century Devi Garh palace in the village of Delwara. It was the royal residence of the rulers of Delwara principality, from mid-18th century till mid-20th century.

We enjoyed a relaxing afternoon of spa treatments and swimming followed by a private dinner in the Sheesh Mahal, once used by Devigarh’s kings to entertain their queens and guests.

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Pushkar

Our final spot in India was Pushkar, well-known for its annual camel fair and a popular tourist spot, with its bustling ghats and temples around Pushkar Lake, believed to have holy waters, and its many souvenir shops. Tiko’s is a cheerful spot for some good rooftop food and a refreshing lassi.